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Coastal Landscapes

Fetch, wave refraction and wave energy

  • 2 things to know
  • AS Unit 1

Overview

Why the south-west coast of Wales receives high energy waves, wave orientation and wave refraction.

What you need to know

Answer each one before you reveal it.

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Key term

Define fetch.

Key term

State the three factors that determine the energy of a wave when it reaches the coast.

Questions from this subtopic

Each one with the model answer underneath.

  1. 1

    Define fetch.

    Model answer

    Fetch is the distance of open water over which the wind blows to generate a wave.

  2. 2

    State the three factors that determine the energy of a wave when it reaches the coast.

    Model answer

    The strength of the wind, the length of time it has blown, and the fetch over which it has acted.

  3. 3

    Explain why the south-west coast of Wales receives high energy waves.

    Model answer

    Its fetch extends across the Atlantic for thousands of kilometres in the direction of the prevailing south-westerly wind, so waves arrive fully developed.

  4. 4

    What is wave orientation, and why does it matter?

    Model answer

    Wave orientation is the direction from which waves approach the shore, and it determines the angle of the swash and therefore the direction and rate of longshore drift.

  5. 5

    Define wave refraction.

    Model answer

    Wave refraction is the bending of a wave crest as it enters shallow water at an angle, so that the crest becomes more nearly parallel to the shore.

  6. 6

    Explain how wave refraction concentrates energy on a headland.

    Model answer

    The wave slows first in the shallow water off the headland while the parts in the deeper bay run on, so the crest bends around the headland and its energy is focused there.

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