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Coastal Landscapes

Beaches and the changing beach profile

  • 3 things to know
  • Component 01

Overview

Recall questions on beach zones, berms, storm ridges, cusps, ridges and runnels, shingle and sand beach gradients, winter and summer profiles, swash-aligned and drift-aligned beaches, sediment sorting, and fieldwork methods for surveying profiles, pebbles and longshore drift, including Spearman's rank.

What you need to know

Answer each one before you reveal it.

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Key term

Define a beach.

Key term

Distinguish between the backshore, the foreshore and the nearshore.

Key term

Why is a shingle beach steeper than a sand beach?

Questions from this subtopic

Each one with the model answer underneath.

  1. 1

    Define a beach.

    Model answer

    An accumulation of sand or shingle lying between the lowest tide level and the highest point reached by storm waves.

  2. 2

    Distinguish between the backshore, the foreshore and the nearshore.

    Model answer

    The backshore lies above normal high tide and is reached only by storm waves, the foreshore is the intertidal zone, and the nearshore is the shallow water in which waves break.

  3. 3

    Why is a shingle beach steeper than a sand beach?

    Model answer

    Water percolates rapidly into coarse shingle so the backwash is weak and material is left high up, whereas sand holds water and the strong backwash flattens the profile.

  4. 4

    What is a berm?

    Model answer

    A ridge of sediment on the beach marking the highest point reached by the swash of a recent tide.

  5. 5

    What is a storm ridge?

    Model answer

    A high ridge of coarse material thrown right to the back of the beach by exceptionally powerful storm waves.

  6. 6

    What are beach cusps?

    Model answer

    Crescent-shaped hollows separated by horns of coarser material, formed where swash and backwash are of equal strength and set up a regular circulation.

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AThe lower quartile is the 2nd value, 11 cm.
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