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Coastal Landscapes

Winds, fetch and the generation of waves

  • 3 things to know
  • Component 01

Overview

Recall questions on how wind generates waves, fetch and the large waves of Britain's south-west coasts, wind speed, duration, direction and frequency, a fully developed sea, sea and swell, storm frequency, and wave height, wavelength, period and energy.

What you need to know

Answer each one before you reveal it.

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Key term

How do waves obtain their energy from the wind?

Key term

Define fetch.

Key term

Why do the south-west facing coasts of Britain receive the largest waves?

Questions from this subtopic

Each one with the model answer underneath.

  1. 1

    How do waves obtain their energy from the wind?

    Model answer

    Friction between moving air and the water surface transfers energy to the water, and the wind then pushes directly against the growing face of the wave.

  2. 2

    Define fetch.

    Model answer

    The uninterrupted distance of open water across which a wind blows towards a coast.

  3. 3

    Why do the south-west facing coasts of Britain receive the largest waves?

    Model answer

    The prevailing south-westerly winds cross thousands of kilometres of open Atlantic, giving the longest fetch and so the greatest wave energy.

  4. 4

    State the three properties of the wind that determine how large waves become.

    Model answer

    The speed of the wind, the length of time it blows for, and the fetch over which it blows.

  5. 5

    What is meant by wind frequency at a coast?

    Model answer

    How often the wind blows from each direction over a given period of time.

  6. 6

    Why does wind direction matter as much as wind speed for the shape of a beach?

    Model answer

    Direction sets the angle at which waves approach the shore, which controls the direction and rate of longshore drift and therefore where sediment builds up.

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