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Coastal Landscapes

Beaches, spits and bars

  • 2 things to know
  • Component 1 Section A

Overview

Typical profile of a shingle beach, difference between the berm and the runnel on a beach and formation of a spit.

What you need to know

Answer each one before you reveal it.

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Key term

Describe the typical profile of a shingle beach.

Key term

Why is a sand beach much gentler in gradient?

Questions from this subtopic

Each one with the model answer underneath.

  1. 1

    Describe the typical profile of a shingle beach.

    Model answer

    A shingle beach is steep, often at 10° to 20°, because water drains rapidly through the coarse material. Weak backwash leaves the sediment high on the profile.

  2. 2

    Why is a sand beach much gentler in gradient?

    Model answer

    Sand packs tightly and water cannot percolate through it easily. Backwash therefore stays strong and pulls material back down, producing a slope of about 2° to 5°.

  3. 3

    What is the difference between the berm and the runnel on a beach?

    Model answer

    A berm is a ridge of sediment marking the limit of the swash at high tide. A runnel is a water-filled trough on the lower beach between ridges.

  4. 4

    Define a spit.

    Model answer

    A spit is a long, narrow ridge of sand or shingle attached to the land at one end. The free end projects into the sea or across an estuary mouth.

  5. 5

    Explain the formation of a spit.

    Model answer

    Longshore drift carries sediment along the coast until the shoreline changes direction abruptly. Sediment continues in its original line into the deeper, calmer water and is deposited, building a ridge outward from the land.

  6. 6

    Why does the end of a spit often curve landward?

    Model answer

    Waves from a second, less common direction refract around the spit end. The change in wave approach turns the tip inland to form a recurved hook.

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