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Coastal Landscapes

Fetch, wave refraction and wave reflection

  • 3 things to know
  • Component 1 Section A

Overview

Wave refraction, wave orientation and wave reflection.

What you need to know

Answer each one before you reveal it.

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Key term

Define fetch.

Key term

Which three factors determine the energy of a wave?

Key term

Why is the south-west coast of England exposed to such powerful waves?

Questions from this subtopic

Each one with the model answer underneath.

  1. 1

    Define fetch.

    Model answer

    Fetch is the distance of open water over which the wind blows towards a coast. A longer fetch allows more energy to be transferred to the waves.

  2. 2

    Which three factors determine the energy of a wave?

    Model answer

    Wave energy depends on wind speed, the length of time the wind blows and the fetch. All three must be large to generate powerful waves.

  3. 3

    Why is the south-west coast of England exposed to such powerful waves?

    Model answer

    The prevailing south-westerly winds cross the Atlantic with a fetch of up to about 5,000 km. Waves arriving at Cornwall have gathered energy over that whole distance.

  4. 4

    Explain why the North Sea coast of England has lower wave energy than Cornwall.

    Model answer

    The North Sea limits fetch to a few hundred kilometres. Less energy is transferred to the waves, although storm surges can still be severe.

  5. 5

    Define wave refraction.

    Model answer

    Wave refraction is the bending of wave crests as they enter shallow water at an angle. The part of the crest in shallow water slows while the rest continues at speed.

  6. 6

    Explain how wave refraction concentrates energy on a headland.

    Model answer

    Water shallows earlier off a headland, so the wave crest there slows first and the rest swings round towards it. Energy is focused on the headland and erosion is at its most rapid there.

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